What does it truly mean to be a cheesemaker today? What are the biggest challenges for a dairy carrying the weight of a tradition as grand as that of Parmigiano Reggiano?
We asked Cristian and Luisa directly. Husband and wife, they have been at the helm of Caseificio Agricolo del Milanello for over ten years. When asked, “how do you become a cheesemaker?” they answer almost in unison, laughing: “You don’t just wake up one day and decide to be a cheesemaker… you are either born into it, or you fall into it”.
Indeed, they tell us about a world built on experiences that are cemented and passed down from generation to generation, where the boundary between “home” and “workplace” is almost non-existent. The life of the dairy—its upkeep and its expansion—has become inextricably linked with their own lives and those of their children.
Their children have learned to view the dairy not just as “Mum and Dad’s job”, but as a shared, family space to be lived in and nurtured, even after closing time.
This is how Luisa and Cristian describe themselves: not taking themselves too seriously, with the frankness and humour typical of those used to “getting their hands dirty”, interacting daily with a diverse clientele and evolving consumer habits, adapting to their new needs.
How has the consumption of Parmigiano Reggiano changed over time?
The pandemic, Luisa tells us, has changed the way consumers buy and eat Parmigiano, and much more.
People now have greater awareness and a more refined gastronomic culture (perhaps due to all that home baking during lockdown?).
Customers ask specific, technical questions, and whoever is behind the counter must be ready to answer them.
Cristian confirms this trend and explains that, unlike in the past when the typical customer—the housewife—would buy hard, dry Parmigiano Reggiano to grate over her handmade tortelli or cappelletti, the preference has now shifted towards a softer Parmigiano, to be enjoyed in small chunks as an aperitif, accompanied by a glass of Lambrusco (and speaking of pairings… they suggest a surprising Parmigiano and grappa combination, which can be discovered during one of the tasting sessions at their dairy).
“The drinking culture has also changed,” they continue: it’s no longer about robust wines to accompany a meal eaten together, strictly seated at the dinner table, but rather light, sparkling wines that can be enjoyed even without food.
They describe a daily routine made up of quick lunches and dinners eaten on the go, caught up in the rush between chores—a description many of us can relate to.
At this point, a question naturally arises…
What is the role of the cheesemaker today?
Faced with this question, Cristian and Luisa have no doubts. Today’s cheesemaker is the person who manages the entire dairy, extending well beyond just production. “Making cheese is the easy part,” Cristian tells us, explaining how the production phase has been vastly simplified thanks to technological innovations over the last twenty years. Milk analysis results arrive on the same day, allowing cheesemakers to produce high-quality cheese without waste or “bad years”.
So, what rests on the cheesemaker’s shoulders? Here, Cristian’s list becomes extensive (and you can feel the full weight of his responsibilities): “Managing the electrician, the surveyor, the shop assistants, health and safety inspections… dealing with a punctured tractor tyre”.
In short, everything and everyone reports to the cheesemaker. They are the main point of reference.
On this note, he adds an interesting and somewhat “contrarian” reflection.
Because in a world where there is increasing talk about the possibility of being replaced by machines, he speaks instead of irreplaceability. He asserts that in a trade like his, finding someone to completely step into his shoes, should he be unable to work or decide to stop, would be almost impossible. This is because the job demands a level of presence, supervision, and dedication that goes far beyond regular working hours—something not everyone is willing to commit to.
And so, we ask…
What is the biggest challenge for a cheesemaker?
“Making good cheese,” Cristian answers flatly. He then continues, “Your cheese must be the best, and you must not just be a cheesemaker; you must be THE cheesemaker”.
There’s nothing more to add. Concise, blunt, and straight to the point. We are convinced.
And what about Parmigiano production? How has it changed over the last century?
For those who might not know, Caseificio del Milanello has a history spanning nearly a hundred years. It was the year 1937 when it was born. “Since then, as far as production goes, very little has changed,” they explain.
What has changed (for the better) are the cold stores and the salting rooms (where the cheese is brined), which now have increasingly controlled temperature and humidity levels.
The cows’ diet is also different. While they previously ate mainly grass and maize, today they are fed pre-chopped dry hay, which allows for easier chewing and digestion.
In general, Cristian and Luisa both feel that the gradual industrialisation of processes has led to a standardisation of quality, which remains high even though it is no longer tied to seasonal fluctuations.
How has Caseificio del Milanello changed since your arrival?
The baton was passed to Luisa and Cristian at Caseificio Agricolo del Milanello ten years ago. Since their arrival, they have reorganised things—in their own words—“the way we liked it”.
“I like to think of myself as a tailor,” Luisa tells us, “and the dairy as a suit I’ve tailored specifically for my husband and me, stocking the products we wanted”.
As a matter of fact, with her, products are never kept in the same place. And this isn’t because she’s absent-minded, quite the opposite: she has such a precise overview that it’s hard to imagine her away from the dairy. Rather, she envisions the shopping experience as a treasure hunt, where the merchandise is not only continuously refreshed (she selects new products even from the same suppliers) but is also repositioned every time, encouraging customers to search, browse, and “get lost” among the shelves, only to discover increasingly delicious items.
When they first arrived, the dairy was an “anonymous” place where people went solely on purpose to buy cheese. Today, it is a bright space with their tangible personal touch—a place that catches the customer’s eye and invites them in.
How do you envision the consumption of Parmigiano Reggiano in ten or twenty years?
After taking a look at the past, a question about the future was inevitable. Here, Luisa and Cristian—who had agreed on everything until now—reveal the differing traits of their personalities. Luisa dreams—with a touch of nostalgia and hope—of “a return to the past”, with individuals and families finding the time to slow down, pause, and cook together.
Cristian, on the other hand—with a pragmatism that is perhaps slightly disillusioned but certainly realistic—predicts “increasingly convenient, smaller, and readier-to-eat products”.
Different perspectives from a husband and wife who still know how to joke about it, but both born from the same realisation: this massive industrialisation speeds us up, but it makes us lonelier. We eat quick and convenient meals, but without the tools to know how to savour them or the patience to truly learn how. Even though we all seem more expert. More aware.
In such a scenario, it is refreshing to encounter a reality like Caseificio del Milanello—where a results-driven mindset (in ten years, they have multiplied Parmigiano production eightfold compared to when they arrived) is combined with an artisanal approach and an entirely family-oriented spontaneity, in full respect of tradition.
And so, sharing a chocolate, we say our goodbyes.
